A Shirt in the Market — AP Class 7 Civics
1. About the Chapter
'Have you EVER looked at your shirt and WONDERED: Where did this COME from? Who MADE it? How MUCH did each person get PAID?' This chapter follows the JOURNEY of a cotton shirt from the field to the shop — revealing the PEOPLE behind the product and the INEQUALITY in the market.
Key Themes
- The cotton shirt supply chain
- Cotton cultivation in AP
- Weaving and garment making
- The market chain and profits
- Putting-out system
- Market and equality
2. The Journey of a Shirt — Overview
Cotton Farmer (Guntur/Kurnool)
↓ (sells cotton)
Ginning Mill (cleans, separates seeds)
↓
Spinning Mill (makes yarn)
↓
Weaver (makes cloth)
↓
Garment Factory (cuts, stitches into shirt)
↓
Wholesaler (buys in bulk)
↓
Retailer (sells to YOU)
'Every step ADDS value and cost. Every person in the chain gets a SHARE. But the shares are NOT equal.'
3. Cotton Cultivation in AP
AP's Cotton Belt
| District | AP Region | Cotton Type |
|---|---|---|
| Guntur | Coastal AP | High-quality long-staple cotton |
| Kurnool | Rayalaseema | Medium-staple cotton |
| Prakasam | Coastal AP | Hybrid varieties |
| Anantapur | Rayalaseema | Drought-resistant cotton |
'Guntur is called the COTTON CITY of AP — with one of the LARGEST cotton markets in India.'
The Life of a Cotton Farmer
| Aspect | Detail |
|---|---|
| Crop duration | 6–8 months (sown June–July, harvested December–January) |
| Input costs | Seeds, fertilisers, pesticides, labour — HIGH |
| Water | Cotton needs 60–80 cm rainfall or IRRIGATION |
| Risk | Pest attacks, price fluctuations, weather |
The Problem: Debt and Distress
'Cotton farming is a GAMBLE — if the crop FAILS, the farmer is RUINED.'
| Cost | Amount (per acre) |
|---|---|
| Seeds (Bt cotton) | Rs. 3,000–4,000 |
| Fertilisers | Rs. 5,000–8,000 |
| Pesticides | Rs. 8,000–15,000 |
| Labour | Rs. 10,000–15,000 |
| Total | Rs. 26,000–42,000 |
Most farmers BORROW at high interest from local moneylenders. If the crop fails or prices fall — DEBT TRAP.
4. The Cotton Farmer and the Trader
How Cotton is Sold
| Step | Who | What Happens |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Farmer | Harvests cotton. Brings to the MANDI (cotton market). |
| 2 | Trader/Middleman | INSPECTS cotton. BUYS at a price. |
| 3 | Ginning mill | GINS (separates seeds from fibre) — bales the cotton. |
The Trader's Power
'The trader KNOWS the market price. The farmer OFTEN does not. This IMBALANCE of INFORMATION gives the trader an ADVANTAGE.'
- Trader may SAY prices are LOW — even when they are NOT
- Farmer is URGENT to sell — needs money, no storage
- 'The FAMER produces the VALUE — but the TRADER takes the PROFIT'
AP: The Cotton Mandi in Guntur
'Guntur Cotton Mandi is the LARGEST cotton market in ASIA — thousands of farmers bring their produce here.'
| Statistic | Detail |
|---|---|
| Cotton arriving daily | 50,000–100,000 quintals (peak season) |
| Traders | Hundreds |
| Price influenced by | Global market, government MSP, quality |
Minimum Support Price (MSP)
The government ANNOUNCES a minimum price for cotton. If market prices fall BELOW MSP, the government should BUY at MSP. 'MSP is supposed to PROTECT farmers — but NOT all farmers get MSP because of trader CORNERS and corruption.'
5. From Cotton to Cloth — The Weavers
The Ginning Mill
- Removes SEEDS from cotton fibre (1 kg cotton = 600 g lint + 400 g seeds)
- Cotton lint → BALED → sent to spinning mill
- Cotton seeds → used for COOKING OIL and ANIMAL FEED
The Spinning Mill
- Cotton lint → CARDING, COMBING, SPINNING → YARN
- Yarn is wound onto BOBBINS — sent to weavers
The Weavers — Putting-Out System
| System | Description |
|---|---|
| Factory weaving | Weavers work in a FACTORY — regular wages |
| Putting-out system | Trader GIVES yarn to weaver at HOME. Weaver makes cloth, returns it. TRADER pays piece rate. |
The Putting-Out System — Exploitation
'The putting-out system LOOKS like FREEDOM — the weaver works from home. But it is OFTEN a TRAP.'
| How It Works | The Problem |
|---|---|
| Trader SUPPLIES yarn to weaver | Weaver has NO choice of materials |
| Trader says WHAT to weave | Weaver has NO creative freedom |
| Trader sets the RATE | Weaver cannot NEGOTIATE |
| Trader pays per PIECE | Weaver works LONG hours for LOW pay |
| Weaver does NOT own the cloth | Weaver CANNOT sell to anyone else |
Powerloom vs. Handloom
| Type | Speed | Quality | Employment | AP |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Handloom | SLOW (one piece per day) | HIGH quality | More LABOUR | Kanchipuram-style, Venkatagiri |
| Powerloom | FAST (10+ pieces per day) | MEDIUM quality | Less LABOUR | Major in AP |
AP Textile Industry
| Location | Speciality |
|---|---|
| Guntur | Cotton YARN |
| Venkatagiri | Handloom cotton sarees |
| Kakinada | Textile mills |
| Pochampally | Ikat (tie-dye) — Telangana (close to AP) |
| Mangalagiri | Handloom cotton fabric |
6. From Cloth to Garment
The Garment Factory
- Cloth → CUT (pattern) → STITCHED (sewn) → FINISHED (buttons, tags, ironing)
- EXport to INTERNATIONAL brands
- Much of the garment industry WORKS through SUB-CONTRACTING
Who Makes Your Clothes?
| Worker | Work | Earnings |
|---|---|---|
| Factory worker (organised) | Cutting, stitching | MINIMUM WAGE (varies) |
| Home-based worker | Embroidery, finishing | VERY LOW (below minimum wage) |
| Child labour (illegal) | Various | NONE — exploited |
Case Study: Garment Workers in India
- Most garment workers are WOMEN
- Work 12–14 hours daily
- EARN Rs. 5,000–10,000 per month
- NO job security, NO sick leave, NO holidays
- 'The SHIRT that costs Rs. 1,000 in the mall — the worker who STITCHED it might get only Rs. 10 per shirt'
7. The Final Price — Who Gets What?
Breaking Down a Rs. 1,000 Shirt
| Cost Component | Amount | Percentage |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton farmer | Rs. 30–40 | 3–4% |
| Ginner | Rs. 10 | 1% |
| Spinner | Rs. 50 | 5% |
| Weaver | Rs. 60 | 6% |
| Garment worker | Rs. 80 | 8% |
| Transport, advertising, brand | Rs. 200 | 20% |
| Retailer profit | Rs. 200 | 20% |
| GST + other taxes | Rs. 120 | 12% |
| Brand profit | Rs. 200–250 | 20–25% |
'The FARMER who grew the cotton gets LESS than 5% of the shirt's price. The BRAND that put its LOGO on it gets 25%.'
8. Market and Equality
Why the System is Unequal
| Factor | How It Creates Inequality |
|---|---|
| Unequal information | Brand knows GLOBAL prices. Farmer does not. |
| Unequal power | Big brands can FORCE low prices on suppliers |
| No alternative | Farmer has NO other buyer. Weaver has NO other trader. |
| Global competition | Bangladesh, Vietnam make clothes CHEAPER — India's workers lose |
| Lack of organisation | Farmers and workers are NOT UNIONISED — cannot bargain |
What Can Be Done
| Solution | How It Helps |
|---|---|
| Fair Trade | Guarantees MINIMUM price to producers |
| Cooperatives | Farmers/weavers BAND together — better bargaining |
| MSP implementation | Government BUYS at minimum price |
| Brand accountability | Pressure brands to ENSURE fair wages in supply chain |
| Consumer awareness | KNOW where your clothes come from — choose ETHICAL brands |
9. Common Mistakes
- Thinking 'brand' means 'high quality' — Brand price includes ADVERTISING, logo, packaging — not just quality.
- Believing the farmer gets a 'fair share' — The farmer gets 3–5% of the final price — that is NOT fair.
- Forgetting about the putting-out system — It STILL exists — millions of home-based weavers are exploited.
- Thinking 'buying cheap' is always good — Cheap clothes may mean EXPLOITED workers and UNSAFE working conditions.
- Ignoring the global chain — Your shirt may have cotton from AP, yarn from China, and stitching in Bangladesh — it is a GLOBAL product.
10. Exam Focus
2 Marks
Q: What is the putting-out system? A: A system where a trader supplies raw materials (like yarn) to weavers at home, who make the product and return it for piece-rate payment.
Q: What percentage of a shirt's final price does the cotton farmer get? A: Only 3–5%.
4 Marks
Q: Trace the journey of a cotton shirt from field to shop. A: Farmer grows cotton → Ginning mill (separates seeds) → Spinning mill (makes yarn) → Weaver (makes cloth) → Garment factory (cuts, stitches) → Wholesaler (buys bulk) → Retailer (sells to customer). At each step, costs and PROFITS are added.
6 Marks
Q: Explain the inequalities in the cotton shirt supply chain, with AP examples. A: The cotton farmer (e.g., in Guntur) gets ONLY 3–5% of the final shirt price, despite producing the RAW material. The farmer faces HIGH input costs, DEBT, and EXPLOITATION by traders. The weaver (putting-out system) works long hours for LOW piece-rate wages. The brand and retailer take 40%+ of the price. In AP, cotton farmers in Guntur and Kurnool are VULNERABLE to price fluctuations, pest attacks, and debt. The system is UNBALANCED because of unequal information, power, and lack of alternatives for farmers.
11. Quick Self-Test
-
Name the district in AP known as the 'Cotton City'. Answer: Guntur
-
What is MSP? Answer: Minimum Support Price — government-guaranteed minimum price for crops.
-
What is the putting-out system? Answer: Trader gives raw material to home-based weaver; weaver returns finished product for piece-rate pay.
-
How much does the cotton farmer get from a Rs. 1,000 shirt? Answer: Rs. 30–40 (3–4%)
-
Where is Asia's largest cotton market? Answer: Guntur, AP
-
What is the difference between handloom and powerloom? Answer: Handloom = SLOW, manual weaving, high quality. Powerloom = FAST, machine weaving.
-
Who earns MORE — the farmer or the brand? Why? Answer: The brand — because it has market power, global reach, and the LOGO adds perceived value.
-
How can farmers get a BETTER price? Answer: Through cooperatives, MSP, Rythu Bazaars, and fair trade practices.
12. Conclusion
'A shirt is NOT just a PIECE of fabric — it is the STORY of human labour, from the cotton field to the shop shelf.' The journey of a shirt reveals the DEEP inequalities in our market system. The farmer who grows the cotton, the weaver who makes the cloth, the worker who stitches the shirt — ALL work hard but get VERY LITTLE. The brand and the retailer — who add NO physical labour — get the MOST. 'Every time you buy a shirt, REMEMBER the hands that MADE it — and ASK: were those hands PAID FAIRLY?'
Key takeaways:
- A cotton shirt passes through 6+ stages from farmer to consumer
- The farmer gets ONLY 3–5% of the final price
- AP's Guntur district is a MAJOR cotton-producing region
- Putting-out system exploits home-based weavers
- The market chain is UNEQUAL — power and profit concentrate at the TOP
- Fair trade and cooperatives can help BALANCE the system
- Be a CONSCIOUS consumer — understand what you BUY
